Butterfly Defence Alpha

If all You're strokes are pure brushing (looping, chopping, passive block, but no hitting) this blade can help you develop basis of your game. This not a game for winning a match by force though; its too slow that Your opponent would say "thanks".

I've been playing with this blade for a few weeks now, Giant Dragon Submarine in 1.0mm on FH and .6mm Doublefish 1615 long pips on the backhand. I finally got some real practice time chopping with it so I feel able to make a half decent review. The blade itself is massive and heavy, probably easily over 95 grams as listed, though with defensive rubbers it doesn't matter so much. As one might imagine the attacking capabilities of the blade are pretty limited. It's slow and sloooow, I'm having to learn the hard way that you HAVE to place your shots, even smashes, in the right place, otherwise they will come back harder than you hit them, a lot less putaway power than Defplay senso, with that I smash it or hit with my pips and it's almost a sure winner. At any distance from the table, you HAVE to strike the bottom of the ball like you are looping backspin to get it to go over, over the table loops are normal, a step back or even off the end, it's like a backspin, dig under the ball stroke, away from the table, the only way your going to get it back with topspin is the Hao Yingchao sidespin shot where you drop the racket head straight down and scoop/fish it out with massive curving sidespin. But over the table you can do tiny short spiny loops which will jump and kick and throw people off and with pinpoint accuracy. Blocking/hitting is ok, not great, the plies are a little too soft to be great with it, blocking with any slow defensive inverted rubber is really easy though and just takes off pace to it, which can be good or bad depending on where you place it. Aggressive long pips pushes work well for me with this setup though, gets a lot of popped up balls with the reversal. Chopping is great so far, close to the table I have to use very small, soft strokes, because somehow the blade has enough kick to be able to also chop from yards away while still being dead when attacking. Chopping far off the table was easy once I forced myself to bend my knees as I chopped down, sinking into the shots, then they started going back lower and a lot more consistently. Part of that is the pips, which aren't solely made for chopping. Overall a great defender's blade, small strokes near the table, big strokes away, plenty of control, though not while attacking, but great for chops.

heavy oversized,the willow takes the speed out of the ball and creates a huge dwell for chopping but without much flex,because it holds onto the ball for so long it is not easy to make controlled topspin (the loop arc is too flat)which is a no no for me,if your chopping only on both sides it`s good,if you want to make topspin attacks look for something else,defplay senso chops as well but attacks better with topspin

I play this blade not for a long time(almost 3 weeks).And i want ask:what rubber on this blade will be the best for attack and chop(most for chop).I try to play tackiness c(1.5) and tackiness c2 (1.7).They are very soft and slow.I want some chines rubber with medium speed and control.Now I play friendship 729 super fx(blue sponge)2.0

You can effectively use this blade only if you're have at least one of the following characteristic. - You play all slash no hit game (chop, loop, block, "sliding door", but no flat hit). - You play bait and trap game. - You play last man stand / patient / who outlast whom game - You're a passive chopper, or - You have a very fast strokes to attack with (this blade is so heavy and slow) - You love to send the best stroke your opponent send back to him/ her table side, and - You love how "pretty" your opponent face is!